National costume of dzukija
Published on: Mar 3, 2016
Transcripts - National costume of dzukija
National costume of Dzūkija
The Clothing of DzūkijaTraditional clothing was worn inmany parts of Dzūkija longerthan anywhere else in Lithuania,even into the first decades ofthe twentieth century. Fancydress worn by villagers variesgreatly among the differentparts of this region. The wovencloth of garmentsfrom Dzūkija is distinguishedfrom that of other regions by itsbright colors and smallercheckers and stripes.
HeadwearThe headwear of women of Dzūkijadepended on the womans age and thetime of the year. Girls decorated theirheads with crowns and galloons made ofribbons, sashes, and various refinements.Married women wore bonnets and whitelinen stoles
BonnetsMarried women wore bonnets, whichin Dzūkija were especially varied. They weresewn from linen-netted lace, white or coloredcotton, wool and silk. Their front edges wereusually decorated with embroidery, variouspleated ribbons, laces, beads, and additionalshiny ornaments.
HeadbandsHeadbands were made from folded and cut into strips of canvas. They were usually white and red. The spaces between the strips were are sometimes filled with small tassels of wool, amber, pearl and coral beads.
HeadscarvesHeadscarves were woven of wool and linen. Later they were also made of cotton.
Winter scarvesDuring the cold winter women wore winter scarves. They were squared of two colors and made of wool.
SkirtsSkirts were usually patterned with fine checkers. It appears that the oldest color combinations in use there were similar to those in Aukštaitija, red and green combinations were enriched with one or two additional colors. Later, the checkers of skirts become finer and new color combinations of dark red and violet appeared.
BodicesWomen sewed their bodices for special occasions from purchased cloth (usually silk or wool). Their favorite colors were dark red, green, blue and black. Most typical bodices were sewn with four gradually widening laps, which did not meet in the front.
ApronsEarlier aprons in Dzūkija weremade of linen with white andred or white and blue coloredcheckers. In the second half ofthe nineteenth century, darkeraprons, usually finelycheckered or striped in red,blue or brown hues came intofashion. These weredecorated with horizontallywoven stripes of brightlycolored wool, and sometimeswith finely textured overlayedpatterns on the lower edges.
SashesThe small space on the waistwas left especially for a sash,which remained an importantpart of clothing in Dzūkija for along time. Women wore sashes,woven in pick-up patterns, andsometimes more modernoverlaid ones. Their geometricornaments, which were ofancient origin, were usually red,green, blue, or violet in color.
ShirtsWomens shirts were sewn and decorated like those in Aukštaitija. Theyhad red woven-in pick-up patterns with a finer texture that was typical oftextile decoration in Dzūkija. After the mid-nineteenth century, white workembroidery (broderie anglaise) replaced this older style of decoration. Theparts of the shirts that could be seen from under the bodice wereembroidered. These included the collar, shoulder tabs, chest and cuffs.Plant patterns, along with this western European embroidery technique,were often changed and reflected the influence of older local geometricornaments.Mens shirts in the second half of the nineteenth century in Dzūkija wererather densely decorated with white or colored embroidery.
PantsLong pants were made of the same cloth,from finely checkered grey, brown or darkwool, or of a half-woolen cloth.
FootwearThe most valued womens footwearin Dzūkija was leather shoes.However, fewer people here wereable to afford them. Leathersoleless shoes (naginės) were alsoless common than elsewhere. Bastshoes (vyžos) were worn morecommonly. Women also wore veryunique shoes, the čempės, whichwere crocheted from thick towthreads decorated with knitting ofcolored thread.
CaftansWomens caftans (sermėga) were sewn widenedat the bottom and were decorated with blackvelvet or other dark cloth trim and decorativethread.Men wore caftans (sermėga) of undyed greymatted woolen cloth. These widened toward thebottom and were decorated with dark trim aswell as decorative threads.
Fur coatsFur coats were sewn fromwhite, yellowish or brownishsheepskin. Neck and sleeveflaps were made from the samesheepskin, just it had beencurly and shorter hair wool.