National geographic ultimate photo guide
Published on: Mar 3, 2016
Transcripts - National geographic ultimate photo guide
National Geographic Photography Basics
FIELD GUIDE TO
igital photography has surpassed film pho-
tography in popularity in recent years, a fact
that has relegated some amateur and profes-
sional film cameras to the unlikely task of becoming a
paperweight. In the art world, however, film cameras are
coveted. The lesson is simple: choose the tools that you
need to get the results you want.
Just a couple of years ago a professional would have
chosen from a vast array of film camera types—single lens
reflexes, twin lens reflexes, rangefinders, and view cam-
eras to name a few—when selecting the tools of his or her
trade. Now, with the advent of digital technology and digi-
tal software, the serious photographer can, for the most
part, rely on a digital single-lens reflex camera, or D-SLR.
A D-SLR is an incredibly advanced and refined tool
that still offers the all-important ability, as in film version
cameras, to view your subject through the same lens that
records the image onto your sensor. This is achieved via
a mirror and a pentaprism so that what you see is what
you get (often referred to as WYSIWYG). It is hard to
imagine that every time you press the shutter to take a
picture, a mirror between the rear of the lens and the
image sensor flips out of the way, the camera shutter
opens, and the sensor is exposed for the required time.
Meanwhile, the camera’s microprocessor is writing the
multitude of information the image sensor has recorded
to the camera’s memory card. This is incredible in itself.
Now consider how incredible are the cameras used by
sport and press photographers, which manage this at
eight frames a second!
For all intents and purposes, there are two types of
D-SLR cameras. The first is a traditional-looking camera
roughly based on the 35mm film camera bodies that
preceded it. Photographers who would normally use
both medium- and large-format professional cameras are
discovering that in some instances the modern high-end
D-SLR provides superior image quality when compared
to the scan that was possible from their film. (The “for-
mat” of a camera refers to the size of the negative of film
cameras and the size of the image sensor in digital cam-
eras. Large format refers to cameras with a 4 inch by 5
inch negative and larger, whereas medium refers to cam-
eras between 35mm and large format.) Previous users of
high-end film compacts and rangefinder cameras are also
gravitating toward the more advanced functionality and
image quality provided by the D-SLR. At the time of this
writing, manufacturers such as Leica and Epson are close
to producing a digital replacement for the rangefinder,
but high-end digital compacts and D-SLRs are currently
filling this void.
The second type of D-SLR is based on the medium-
format SLR. Some models consist merely of a digital back
on a medium-format film system camera, whereas a few
manufacturers are producing large D-SLRs using the
largest CCDs. These cameras tend to be used for pictures
that require the highest image resolution, such as land-
scape and still life.
Once you have your new camera, you should keep in
mind that the camera essentially houses a miniature com-
puter. Keep your camera software/firmware up to date.
The camera manufacturers continuously tune and fine-
tune the firmware that runs your camera. Updates can
be downloaded from the support section of the manufac-
turer’s website and the instructions to install them into
your camera will be found in your instruction manual.
Copying the firmware file to a memory card normally
does this. Once the memory card is in your camera, use
the camera’s menu to upload the firmware to your cam-
era. As soon as you buy your camera, check to make sure
that you have the latest firmware.
Bear in mind that this is new technology that is continu-
ously evolving and improving. Just as it is with computers,
as soon as you buy a new model and are familiar with using
it, a newer one will be on the market.
The image sensor in a digital camera replaces the film.
There are two main types of sensors used in D-SLR cam-
2 Basic Rules
eras. They are the CMOS (Complementary Metal Oxide
Semiconductor) and the CCD (Charge Coupled Device).
Both sensors have their particular idiosyncrasies, and
they have various characteristics that should be taken
into account when purchasing. So it’s important to look
at some example files and research the characteristics of
the system you intend to purchase.
When professional photographers are choosing and
purchasing a camera system, they like to shoot some
comparison test shots with the cameras they’re consid-
ering. Where possible, emulate this practice. Check the
files in the image-editing software on your computer.
Make sure both cameras are tested with all in-camera
sharpening turned off to allow for a fair comparison. A
camera technician at your local store can show you how
to do this.
Some sensor/camera combinations are particularly
good for low light when using a sensor sensitivity of 400
ISO or higher, while others are fantastic in full natural
light and terrible when used with a high ISO sensor sensi-
tivity. Check the amount of “noise” or “grain” at a higher
ISO. Do your research well and choose a suitable sensor
for the type of photography you’re most interested in.
Whereas in the era of film you would have bought
your camera and decided on the type of film required at
a later stage, now you have to make this important deci-
sion at the outset. It’s not just about the file size your
intended camera is capable of. For instance, if the sensor
is less sharp than the alternative camera, or the color
characteristics less favorable, you could be unhappy with
your choice. Some D-SLRs have in-camera sharpening
to compensate for anti-aliasing filters, the main source
Initially you wouldn’t think that the physical size of
the image sensor would be a factor to consider, since
the quality of the file would seem to be the governing
factor. However, the smallest sensors on a D-SLR are
18mm x 13.5mm, compared to the format of a tradi-
tional 35mm film camera, which is 24mm x 36mm. In
this case, a 50mm lens, which on a film camera would
constitute a standard lens, becomes a 100mm short
This initially may seem to be an advantage, since you
won’t need long telephotos. But there is an issue with
wide angles. A 15mm is an extreme wide angle with a
35mm film camera. With a small sensor, this is only a
slightly wide angle, equivalent to a 30mm lens on a 35mm
film camera in some digital cameras. Some manufactur-
ers are addressing this and are beginning to produce
special lenses specifically for digital bodies, such as the
extraordinary Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 7-14mm f/4.0.
What type of lens do I need?
Now that you’ve bought your new D-SLR camera and are
starting to come to terms with its operation, you might
well be thinking about buying another lens.
When you purchased the camera it more than likely
came with a zoom lens; something like a 28-80mm is the
usual offering with new cameras, and this is a good lens
with which to start.
But if you feel like you need something different, what
do you look for? There are many types of lenses avail-
able, and to know which lens you should buy you need to
Here are a few places where you can visit many different cam-
era manufacturers to learn about their cameras and equipment
when you are researching sensors:
• Your local camera shop
• Photo Plus Expo, NYC, in October
• B H Photo, NYC
• Photo Marketing Association Sneak Peek, in Florida in
know what you want to photograph with it. Lenses come
in all shapes and sizes—a bit like a family—and they all
have specific characteristics. Here is a breakdown of the
different lens types and some of their applications.
There are three basic types of lenses:
A lens belongs in a particular category based on its focal
• 50mm is the traditional focal length for a standard lens.
• Less than 50mm is considered a wide-angle lens.
• Greater than 50mm is considered to be a telephoto lens.
• Lenses beyond about 300mm are known as super telephoto
The standard lens (50mm) gives an angle of view of
between 45 and 55 degrees, which is approximately the
same as that of the human eye. Because of this it produc-
es an image with a natural look; it photographs things in
a manner that is as near as possible to the way we would
see the same subject.
Because these lenses photograph subjects in the same
way as we see things, they produce pictures that tend to
look “normal” and, thus, have a wide application as a
With so many wide-angle lenses available ranging in focal
lengths from 8mm to 35mm, the choice is huge and can
be quite confusing. Basically, the wider the lens, the more
specialized its use.
Super-wide lenses can distort the image and have a lim-
ited, if valuable, use. I would suggest that either a 24mm or
a 28mm lens—the more common types of wide-angle—
would be a good choice to purchase as a starter lens.
The 35mm wide-angle lens is often used as a standard
lens because although the focal length is slightly less
than the 50mm of the standard lens, the difference is
not huge. It can give the photographer the advantage of
extra depth of field, a real benefit for news photographers,
who shoot where space is often limited and for whom the
more of the picture in focus, the better.
Because the angle of view of the wide-angle lens is much
greater than that of the telephoto or standard lens, it’s
obviously the lens to use where there’s limited space or
the subject is large. Taking the family picture at Christmas
when 30 of your relatives have arrived at your place would
be impossible unless you lived in a very large house—or
you had a wide-angle lens to take the shot.
Landscape photography is another area where wide-
angle lenses are very useful. Using a wide-angle offers the
ability to get close to your main subject to make it more
prominent in the frame while keeping as much of the
background in focus as you want.
We all know that a long telephoto lens can bring the subject
right into the heart of the picture; objects that appear to be
miles away when shot with a standard lens appear to be only
feet in front of the photographer when shot with a telephoto
lens. This is why all the photographers at a football match
or soccer game use telephoto lenses to capture the action.
Telephoto lenses have many more uses than just
sports photography. The narrow angle of acceptance
and the extra magnification allow the photographer to
foreshorten the distance between himself and the point
of interest of the picture. The lens allows you to capture
a smaller portion of the scene so that your subject is
not lost. This effect makes telephoto lenses particularly
suited to landscape photography when you are trying to
isolate details in a rather large area.
The longer focal length of a telephoto lens means that
it has much less depth of field than a wide-angle or even
a standard lens. This effect can be used to “drop out” or
blur backgrounds to create a sharp, clear subject without
the confusion of a busy background.
You must take this factor into account when using a
telephoto to shoot landscape pictures, where it’s often
best to have as much of the picture in focus as possible.
This often requires long shutter speeds and small aper-
tures to create greater depth of field. A tripod will be
necessary to hold the camera perfectly still.
A short telephoto lens—90mm, 110mm, or 135mm-
is ideal for portraiture. It allows the photographer to
maintain a comfortable distance from the subject while
still allowing use of the limited depth of field to avoid
Zoom Lens or Fixed Focal Length
As zoom lenses have become better, their popularity has
grown. A few years ago a zoom lens could not match
the quality of a fixed focal-length lens and was seen as
a cheaper alternative to buying a number of fixed focal-
This situation has rapidly changed, and some of the
sharpest and fastest lenses now available are zoom lenses.
The zoom lens allows the photographer to carry less
equipment, since a single zoom lens will often replace two
or even three normal lenses. A top-quality zoom lens is
expensive and will often cost the equivalent of the two or
three fixed-focal-length lenses it replaces.
If you have a choice between a constant-aperture zoom
lens versus a variable-aperture zoom lens, choose the con-
stant one. The reason is simple: Your aperture remains
the same as you zoom, so your exposure can remain the
same. With a variable zoom lens, the aperture can close
down as much as one f-stop. For example, if you zoom
from 28mm to 135mm and you started with f/3.5, you
may end up with f/5.6. The way to combat this is to stop
down anyway so you are not affected. Or better yet, spend
more money for a constant-aperture zoom lens.
A fisheye lens can offer a chance to make unusual images.
If you have a desire to photograph insects, close-ups of
flowers, or any other small objects, then the macro lens
might be what you need.
Usually available in 35mm, 50 or 60mm, or 100 or
105mm focal lengths, these lenses are similar to normal
lenses in that they can focus to infinity, but they are
designed to focus at extremely short distances. They are
used for extreme close-up photography.
Coins, stamps, or any other small objects are ideal
subjects for a macro lens. And because it can focus at a
distance as well, the macro lens can also be used as a stan-
dard lens. The addition of extension rings that fit between
the lens and the camera can make this lens capable of
even more extreme close-up photography.
Finally, there are macro zoom lenses in this category
that can produce an image of an object at a 1:3 ratio.
Sometimes these lenses can even give life-size reproduc-
tions on the film or on the sensor.
Called a fisheye lens because it produces images that look
like a fish’s eye, this lens is extremely wide angle. It can
produce an angle of view of 180 degrees and either a circu-
lar or a full-frame image that is very distorted at the edges.
Because this is the only type of image it can produce, it is
obviously limited in use.
Shift lenses are expensive, but if you like photographing
tall buildings, you’ll find a use for this type of lens.
Using a standard lens, the camera has to be tilted back-
ward to fit the top of the building into the frame. This
produces an image in which the building appears to be
falling backward, and all the vertical lines converge at the
top of the picture, a consequence of the film or image-
sensor plane not being kept parallel to the subject.
A shift lens allows the camera to remain straight and
parallel to the building and uses moving front lens ele-
ments to enable the entire building to be in the frame.
You do this by sliding up the front portion of the lens
to include the top of the building so you don’t have to
point the camera up. The use of a shift lens will stop the
vertical lines from coming together while still giving the
impression of looking up at the building.
The tilt-shift lens has been used by tabletop photog-
raphers and portraitists alike lately to create interesting
images. The tilt feature allows photographers to control
sharpness and blur in unexpected ways.
Split Field Lens
This lens consists of a semicircular close-up lens in a
rotating mount that attaches to the front of a lens and
allows it to produce images in which the close-up fore-
ground image and distant objects in the background are
both in sharp focus.
Teleconverters are clever optical devices that fit between the
camera body and the lens and increase the effective focal
length of the lens. Most teleconverters come in either a 1.4x
or a 2x version. A 2x converter will turn a 200mm lens into a
400mm lens, although it will also reduce maximum aperture,
and thus the light reaching the film, by two stops. A 1.4x
converter will reduce maximum aperture by one stop, neces-
sitating slower shutter speeds or a higher ISO setting. This is
a good option for expanding your range of telephoto lenses,
but be sure to buy the best teleconverter that you can afford.
The control of perspective is the ability to use your camera
and lenses to control the relationship between the back-
ground and foreground of your pictures.
When you’re using a wide-angle lens, the background
appears much farther away from your subject than it actu-
ally is. With a standard lens, the background appears the
same distance away as it does with the naked eye. When
Checklist for D-SLR Photography
The following is a checklist to help you remember all the technical aspects of your photography that need to be kept in mind.
Your new camera is a highly sophisticated piece of equipment; this list should help you avoid simple mistakes while you become
familiar with it.
• Have you charged your batteries? Before every outing, charge your battery. Most digital cameras have rechargeable batteries. In the early
days you will be checking almost every image on the LCD screen on the back of your camera, and this is what runs the camera battery
down more than anything else. In fact, to start with, buy a spare battery.
• Have you formatted your memory card? Before every shoot, and after you download or print your pictures, always, always format your
memory card. As with all technical equipment, failure is always possible. You can lose pictures. However, you can minimize this risk with
good housekeeping. Format your card in the camera’s menu before every use and after you confirm you have downloaded your pictures.
• Do you have enough memory in your cards? One of the plus points of the pre-digital era was the ability to pick up a new roll of film in
almost every corner shop. The cards included with most digital cameras today have a very small capacity for pictures. You will inevitably
need to purchase additional, more spacious cards. Make sure you buy enough for that trip to the Caribbean or some other exotic location
like Alaska where you may not be able to find suitable cards while you’re traveling.
• Have you cleaned your image sensor? If you like to change lenses often, there is a chance that dust attracted to your image sensor will
result in black specks or hairs appearing on your image files. This is especially likely if you forget to turn off your camera before changing
the lens. If the sensor is not cleaned carefully, it can be damaged. Check the manufacturer’s website to see what they recommend. One
way to avoid having to clean the sensor all the time is to keep the lens mount facing down when changing lenses. This way, any airborne
debris is less likely to settle on the sensor.
• Have you set your sensor sensitivity (ISO)? It’s best to use as low an ISO as possible because higher ISO settings produce more “noise”
(undesirable visible grain). The general rule is: The lower the ISO, the better the quality (ifthe shooting circumstances permit it).
• Have you set your color/white balance? We will be going into this later in more depth, but at this stage make sure that your camera is set
on auto-white balance, as in most cases this will produce an acceptable result.
• Have you set the right file type—JPEG, RAW, or TIFF? We’ll be addressing this subject later on. For now, make sure your camera is set
to produce the largest/highest quality JPEG possible. It is absolutely pointless to shoot on smaller JPEG settings, since doing so defeats
the purpose of using a high-quality camera.
using a telephoto lens, the background appears closer. It
should also be mentioned that on a wide-angle lens your
angle of acceptance is much greater than on a standard or
telephoto lens where your angle of acceptance is much less.
This means that with a wide-angle lens, you can sometimes
surprise yourself with how much you’ve included in your
picture. On the other hand, using a telephoto lens, your
subject is more prominent and less of the background is
included within your frame.
So, by varying your lenses, and therefore your perspec-
tive, you can use the background to complement your
pictures or isolate your subject as you require. As I men-
tioned in an earlier chapter, experiment by shooting a
variety of pictures of the same subject with different focal
length lenses to help you understand how different focal
lengths affect perspective. Remember to move backward
and forward in relation to your subject to keep it the same
size in all the frames and at all the different focal lengths.
Exposing your pictures
First, I will define the three basic photographic terms you
will need to know. Then we can learn in greater detail
about each one.
Exposure is the amount of light, controlled by aperture
and shutter speed, that reaches the image sensor.
F-stops are the measure of the size of the opening, or
aperture, in the lens. Remember, the larger the f-stop
number, the smaller the aperture. The smaller the f-stop
number, the larger the aperture and the more light the
lens will let through to the image sensor.
Shutter speed is the measure of the duration or length of
time that the shutter stays open. The longer the shutter
stays open, the more light will be allowed to reach the
image sensor. Faster shutter speeds “freeze” the action
and often require more light and a larger aperture (small-
er f-stop number). Slower shutter speeds enable pictures
to be taken in lower light with a smaller aperture (larger
Before we can achieve the correct exposure it is impor-
tant to know what a correctly exposed image looks like. A
correctly exposed digital picture is a file that shows a full
range of tones, from deep shadows to bright highlights,
with detail across the entire image. You should see some
detail in the dark shadow areas while at the same time
retaining detail in the brighter highlight areas. Providing
you get this, you can decide afterwards whether you actu-
ally need the full tonal range to appear when you print
the image. If you don’t ensure that you have the full tonal
range from the start, there is little you can do about it later.
This last point is more crucial when shooting in JPEG
format. When shooting in RAW mode, getting the right
exposure is a more forgiving process than it is when you
shoot color negative film because you can correct the
color in your computer later.
To register a fully-toned image on your digital camera sen-
sor, you must allow the correct amount of light to reach the
digital sensor. The three factors that control the path of light
are sensor sensitivity (ISO), shutter speed, and aperture.
When film was dominant, exposure was an incredibly
important subject. The digital era has brought us light-
years forward because we can now see the result of our
settings instantly. Just as with film cameras, the D-SLR
takes into account the brightness of the subject, the con-
trast, the color of the picture, and the area focused. When
set for automatic exposure, the camera calculates all this
and much more instantly.
I guess you’ll have realized by now that I’m a fan of
automatic exposure, providing that you review your pic-
tures on the LCD screen on the back of your digital cam-
era as you shoot. If you are a newcomer to photography,
there are many other different aspects that have to be con-
sidered before you take each picture. How do I frame the
picture? Is it in focus? What is the background like? Until
all these elements start to become second nature, it’s wise
to leave your camera on auto-exposure. This will give you
one less thing to worry about while you concentrate on all
the others. Then slowly, as you become more technically
proficient and have learned to hold the camera the right
An underexposed image
has extreme peaks on one
side of the histogram.
An overexposed image
appears as a valley in the
A perfect exposure looks
like a mountain range in
way, you’ll start to appreciate the small adjustments that
are possible on your camera to perfect exposure.
On most D-SLRs and high-end compact digital cam-
eras, you have the option of overriding your automatic
exposure and setting the exposure manually. This is
where we begin to play with the camera’s settings. We will
learn not only to expose correctly but to overexpose and
Film photography requires you to change films if you
want to change the ISO setting. Digital photography, on
the other hand, allows you to shoot a group of pictures, or
even a single picture, at one ISO setting, then change the
ISO setting on the same memory card and keep shooting.
You can change the ISO as often as you like.
Here are some basic tips about shutter speeds to begin:
• To stop a racing car, or someone riding a bicycle, start
with 1/1000 second.
• For everyday pictures such as portraits and views, use
speeds of 1/60 second to 1/250 second.
• If the light is really bad, try not to go below 1/60 sec-
ond. If you must, hold your camera very still and don’t
expect to freeze any action.
Here are some basic tips about f-stops:
• As a general rule, f/5.6 gives a little bit of depth of field,
provided the lens focal length isn’t too long, and is still
wide enough to enable high shutter speeds.
• If it gets really dark, don’t be afraid to open your aper-
ture to its maximum aperture, for example, f/2.
• If you need loads of depth of field, or you want a slow
shutter speed, stop down to f/11 (when using a short
lens) or f/16.
If your picture looks a little bit lighter or darker than it
should, take another, having adjusted the exposure. You
can make your image lighter by increasing your exposure,
or darker by decreasing it.
Exposure Compensation Setting
If you find that your images consistently look better by
underexposing by one stop, or by overexposing by half a
stop, then use the exposure compensation setting to build
this factor into the camera’s light metering. This facility
enables you to under- or overexpose by up to three f-stops
or full shutter speeds. This is normally indicated on your
camera by a scale from +3 to -3 with either half or third
stop increments. Once you set it, the camera will usually
maintain the adjustment until you change it. Most profes-
sional photographers I know use the exposure compensa-
tion feature to fine-tune the meter of their camera.
Take lots of different versions of each picture. When you
have time and the subject permits, vary your exposures so
you don’t miss an important shot. Check the images on
your computer screen and delete all the bad ones before
you show anyone your work.
Automatic Exposure (AE) Modes
On most digital cameras you’ll find a variety of exposure
modes, typically referred to as:
• aperture priority AE(Av)
• shutter priority AE(Tv)
• program AE (P)
• manual (M)
The aperture priority mode enables you to set the f-stop
(aperture) and the camera will then adjust the shutter
speed to give the correct exposure. This mode is particu-
larly useful in low-light conditions, where you want to set
the brightest, widest f-stop in order to get the highest
shutter speed and the minimum amount of movement. If
more depth of field is needed, you can use a small f-stop
to get as much of your picture in focus as possible.
Using the shutter priority mode, you can set the shutter
speed, and the camera selects the f-stop (aperture) to give
the correct exposure. This can be especially useful when
you’re shooting action pictures and you want to freeze
the motion by setting a high shutter speed. By the same
token, if you were photographing a waterfall and you
wanted the water to blur, you could set a slow shutter
speed and the aperture would adjust accordingly. It goes
without saying that both modes assume you have enough
light to expose your pictures within the range of shutter
speeds and apertures you’re using.
This setting leaves all the decision-making to the cam-
era. The camera sets a combination of shutter speed and
aperture so you don’t have to think about exposure at all.
In some cameras this may be set up as subject programs
such as “portrait,” “sports,” or “landscape.” Be careful
though. If there’s not enough (or too much) light to
achieve the effect you’re after, your camera won’t be able
to work miracles. Even on this setting, check the LCD
to make sure you are getting the images you want. And
remember that you can still use autoexposure compensa-
tion to override the camera’s decision.
This mode enables you to manually set the shutter speed
and the aperture independently of each other, referring
either to the camera’s built-in meter or to a handheld
meter. Professionals tend to use manual exposure and
handheld light meters. This allows them to take multiple
meter readings in various points of the subject frame. In
this method the photographer has total control over the
pictorial effects that various shutter speed and aperture
In the diagram below, each combination of lens aperture and shutter speed
produces the same exposure, or lets the same amount of light into the camera.
combinations can achieve. When film was dominant, this
method tended to be the exclusive realm of the profes-
sional or the advanced amateur. Today, the immediate
feedback of digital photography allows you to shoot a
test frame, have a look, make a slight adjustment, have
another little look, and get your exposure right.
Most advanced D-SLR cameras have an autobracket set-
ting. This clever little feature sets the camera to take three
pictures automatically, in rapid succession: one at the “cor-
rect exposure,” one overexposed, and one underexposed.
I find this very useful when working quickly because I
know it will give me a choice of exposures after the fact.
By setting the camera to shoot one picture at the “correct”
exposure—as the camera sees it—and two frames perhaps
one f-stop either side, I’ll always end up with one frame
that I consider to be the perfect exposure. You can change
the increments of the brackets so that they are 1/3, 1/2, or
2/3 stop to either side of the “correct” exposure, depending
on the camera model. On most cameras this facility works
on all the automatic settings and in manual mode.
Most advanced D-SLR cameras, along with the automatic
exposure modes, have some additional settings that can affect
your exposure. The default setting on most D-SLR cam-
eras and point-and shoot-cameras is multisegment metering.
(Nikon calls it matrix metering, Canon, evaluative.) This
method of metering divides the image into a number of
smaller areas in which the microprocessors of the camera
meter the light. The camera then combines these readings
with the aperture and shutter speed and produces a near
perfect result in almost all cases. I would suggest you leave
your camera set on matrix/evaluative metering and switch
temporarily to spot metering when the situation calls for it.
Spot metering is a really good setting when shooting
manually. The reading is taken from a very small section
in the center of the frame, sometimes as little as one per-
cent of the total image. This is very useful, for instance, if
you’re sitting in a separate light from the person you wish
to photograph. Say you are sitting outside a cafe in the
shade of an umbrella. You see your friend has arrived and
she is standing in a shaft of sunlight. In order to expose
a picture of her correctly, use spot metering. You need to
set the camera to expose for the sunlight around her, not
the shade around you.
Center-weighted metering is more biased toward the
center of the frame. Less attention is paid to the corners
and edges. Personally, I don’t have a use for this func-
tion except on some cameras in which automatic flash is
more reliable on this setting. Other photographers like it
because this kind of metering tends to underexpose the
photograph, which worked well with slide film once and,
likewise, digital. As always, experiment to find the best
combination of settings for your camera.
This is an exotic accessory for the digital photographer
and is really only necessary for a professional working with
additional lighting or strobes. A handheld meter today
is often a combination of an exposure meter and a flash
meter, and is generally used as an incident light meter. This
means that the meter measures the light falling on the sub-
ject rather than the light reflected off the subject, the way
your camera does its metering. This highly accurate and
precise instrument is used by holding the meter in front
The sunny f/16 Rule:
If you are attempting to make a landscape photograph without a
tripod, inverse the ISO in selecting your shutter speed, i.e., with
a 200 ISO you would select 1/200 second at f/16.
of the subject with its white dome pointing towards your
camera. You take the reading and transfer these settings to
your camera while your camera is set in the manual mode.
This system does not take into account the color or density
of your subject and produces settings suitable for a mid-
toned, average subject. The main use for this meter in the
digital world is when using supplementary strobes/flashes.
It has the ability to measure the brightness/intensity of a
non-dedicated studio flash, a capability that is not found in
the meter in the camera. This tool is essential when setting
up complicated shots with studio-type lighting.
As you’ve heard before, one of the best things about
digital cameras is the ability to review your images on
the back of your camera. When I harp on about check-
ing the exposure on your LCD screen, sometimes I hear
this: “You silly old fool. In the sunlight I can hardly see
the screen. How can I possibly judge my exposure?”
Most D-SLRs have the facility to display a histogram on
the camera LCD screen. Whereas 99 percent of photog-
raphers think a histogram is some sort of family tree, it
is in fact a fairly simple bar chart. The chart illustrates
how the pixels in an image are distributed by graphing
the number of pixels at each color intensity level. This
shows you whether the image contains enough detail in
the shadows (shown on the left side of the histogram),
mid-tones (shown in the middle), and highlights (shown
on the right side) to create good overall exposure.
As you get used to viewing histograms, you’ll find them
a great tool for checking and double-checking your photo-
graphs, especially in adverse lighting conditions. Knowing
what sort of histogram a well-exposed image produces
eliminates the chances of being fooled by an LCD screen
that is not set to the correct brightness.
If the histogram looks all right, it doesn’t matter whether
the image looks light or dark on the screen. The truth is in
A good exercise is to take some pictures of a subject with
a full range of colors and tones. Set your camera to manual
exposure and expose one frame as the meter suggests. Then
take the same picture in a range of frames at half or one-
third stop increments, from three stops under to three stops
over. Look at the histograms of these pictures to learn how
to read and understand them, taking into account how
the chart varies with under- and overexposure. Very, very
crudely speaking— and I may get criticized for simplifying
to this degree– you’re looking for a mountain range in your
histogram window that starts at one edge, finishes at the
other edge, and reaches toward the top of the histogram
frame. Obviously, since every picture has different content,
your mountain ranges will vary.
Most beginning photographers leave their autofocus func-
tion on the factory-default setting of “on all the time,” like
most of the other settings on their digital cameras.
To start with, and as you learn, this is just where you
should leave this setting. Only when you’ve mastered the
other functions and facilities of your camera should you
begin to tinker with these options.
Like most settings on your D-SLR, autofocus should
really be referred to as automated, rather than automatic.
There are many options within the menus of your cam-
era to fine-tune the focusing. I can’t stress enough the
importance of gradually learning how to use these and
all the functions of your camera as you progress. Using
this automated (as opposed to manual) mode does not
in any way mean that you’re taking the easy option. If
anything, you’re proving that you are a master of technol-
ogy and that all that hard-earned cash spent on your new
advanced digital camera has not been wasted.
Perhaps the first autofocus function found on high-end
cameras that you should learn to use right from the start is
commonly known as “one-shot” or “single servo.” Use this
in cases where you want to compose your picture when
the subject is off-center. In your viewfinder there will be
either cross hairs or AF (autofocus) points to signify the
point on which the camera focuses. Point your camera
directly at the subject so that the AF point is aimed at the
part of your picture that you wish to be the primary point
of focus. By using this one-shot/single servo mode, the
autofocus is activated as you initially depress the shutter. It
will then lock into place as the camera focuses on the point
you’ve chosen. Holding down the button halfway to hold
the focus, you may then recompose your picture perfectly,
allowing better composition. Be aware this feature is total-
ly unsuitable for moving subjects, because once locked in,
the focus does not move until you press the shutter. Every
picture you shoot will, of course, need refocusing.
There are some scenes that are unreliable in the autofocus
function. They are:
• Snowy scenes
• Wide-open blue skies
• Very low light
• Extremely backlit or reflective subjects
When the camera is unable to focus on any point
against the snow or blue sky, for example, set the one-
shot function, lock the focus on something a similar
distance from the primary subject, and then recompose
Another function, which in use is in some way similar
to one-shot, is commonly known as back-button focusing.
In this mode, you enable one of the function buttons on
the back of your D-SLR to activate the focusing. So before
you shoot, and in fact while you shoot, you can enable and
disable the focusing at will. On some advanced D-SLRs
when you combine this with the ability to manually select
one of the many focal points, you’re using the camera’s
autofocus system to its full potential.
Once you’ve started to master your camera, there are
many more settings that you can learn to use within the
autofocus menus. These vary a lot from manufacturer to
manufacturer and take into account many different fac-
tors, sometimes even the type of picture and color of the
intended photograph. So you’ll need to refer to your cam-
era instruction manual, which I’m absolutely sure you’ll
have taken the time to read by now. No doubt you’ll need
to read it again and again!
The only occasion on which I would recommend
manual focus is when you are photographing through
netting or similar screening. When photographing soc-
cer, for example, shooting from behind the goal through
the netting can give a dynamic and graphic effect. This
situation will usually foil all autofocus cameras. Switch
off your autofocus when taking this kind of shot. This
would apply equally to taking pictures of animals behind
cages at the zoo.
Depth of field
Depth of field is the distance between the nearest and the
farthest objects in an image judged to be in acceptable
focus. The focal length and the aperture of the lens you’re
using and your focused distance govern your depth of
field. The longer the focal length, the less the depth of
field. The shorter the focal length, the more depth of field.
The smaller the aperture, the greater the depth of field,
other things being equal. In layman’s terms, telephoto
lenses have less depth of field than wide-angle lenses, and
a more powerful telephoto lens gives less depth of field. It
also follows that extremely wide-angle lenses provide the
most depth of field.
When you see a beautiful landscape photograph hanging
on a wall in a gallery, it was very likely was shot on a very
small aperture (large f/stop number) to get as much depth
of field as possible. Even on a sunny day, using the smallest
aperture may require a rather long shutter speed and may
therefore require the use of a tripod.
This can create a dilemma. For instance, you would
ideally want to use a high shutter speed for shooting
action photographs. Yet the subject is traveling at speed,
so a small aperture would give you more of the subject
in focus, thus making it easier to get the picture sharp.
Some people would just use a higher sensitivity for their
sensor, thus enabling higher shutter speeds and lower
apertures. But this comes at a price—and perhaps the
most expensive price when it comes to photography—
the all-important quality of the image. The sad fact is
that as you increase the sensitivity of your sensor, the
image quality can decrease. (Camera manufacturers are
improving greatly in their high-ISO performance as we
So now it’s decision time: You can’t have everything,
so you have to choose what is most important to you.
Even on the brightest day of the year, with the sun on the
subject, if using 100 ISO, your exposure at 1/1000 second
would be f/5.6. This would not give you much depth of
field on a long telephoto lens. And if you were photo-
graphing floodlit football, you would really be in trouble.
A typical exposure setting would be 1/500 second at f/2.8
at 800 ISO.
When you would like as much depth of field as pos-
sible, remember that the depth of field extends farther
behind the point of focus than in front of it. If you focus
one third into your subject, you will know that the depth
of field will extend by equal amounts before and after the
point of focus. Some lenses have depth-of-field markings
showing approximately how much depth of field is avail-
able at a given aperture. To give a crude example: with a
20mm lens set to f/11 and the focus set approximately 5
feet into the picture, your depth of field will extend from
2 1/2 feet to infinity. Using a 400mm lens set at f/4, your
depth of field with the focus set at approximately 30 feet
would be less than a foot.
Remember that you can use depth of field creatively by
using a wide-open aperture to isolate your subject. Your
subject will stand out sharply as the rest of the image sur-
rounding it remains pleasantly blurred. Equally, with a
wide-angle lens and a small aperture, almost everything
in your picture can be sharp, enabling you to fill the frame
and isolate your subject in the foreground while keeping
a sense of place with a sharp background. To sum up, the
smaller the f-stop, the more depth of field you will get.
But always remember to use a shutter speed that is suit-
able for your subject.
Unfortunately, when it comes to framing your pictures,
there is no auto-composition button to come to your rescue,
so this is one skill that you really will have to master.
This section is about developing an “eye” for a picture.
Photography is about seeing something pictorial and
recording it in an interesting and graphic way. If the
subject doesn’t have the content to begin with, you can’t
mysteriously add it. If the colors and shapes of the subject
don’t complement each other, guidelines will not help
you. They are there to help you make the most of what
you see and photograph. Unless you are constantly look-
ing and thinking, you will not get great pictures.
To compose your pictures properly, in very simple
terms, is to produce a pleasing picture. This is easily
achieved in most cases. Sometimes it may be as simple
as turning the camera vertically to take the picture as
opposed to the more commonly used landscape, or hori-
The important thing is to really think about your pic-
ture and not get too bogged down in technical details.
This may sound hypocritical, as the bulk of this book
deals with the technical aspects of digital photography,
but it’s essential to understand that the technical side
is there to enable you to express your creativity. Unless
you fully grasp the basics of composition, no matter how
technically advanced you become, your pictures will
always be lacking.
To start with, be bold and fill the viewfinder with your
subject. If the subject is predominantly upright, shoot
the picture vertically. If your subject lends itself to a
horizontal picture, shoot it in a landscape format. In the
early days of your photography, when you review your
pictures at the end of the day you will be surprised to
find that the subjects are much smaller in the frame than
you expected. You must make sure that when you look
through the viewfinder you are looking at everything
that is in the viewfinder. Take into account what’s around
your subject and ask yourself if it contributes to the pic-
ture you are trying to make.
One of the advantages of the compact digital camera,
which is lacking on nearly all D-SLRs, is the ability to use
the LCD screen on the rear of your camera as a viewfinder.
I find that people tend to frame their pictures far better
when using the LCD, because they tend to look at the whole
picture. The LCD is so small that your eye cannot wander
around the frame. When you’re looking through a normal
eye-level viewfinder, it’s easier for your eyes to wander and,
therefore, not consider the frame as a whole.
As you start to shoot more pictures and you become
more accustomed to filling the frame, start making use of
your zoom lens (which most digital cameras now come
with) and zoom in on your subject. Don’t be afraid to
shoot, for example, an extreme close-up of your friend, or
your baby, or a flower.
When you shoot close-up portraits, try experimenting
with your framing. Your subject doesn’t always have to be
in the center of the frame and looking directly at the cam-
era. Perhaps when photographing, say, your daughter, it
may be more pleasing to compose the picture with her
on the left or right looking into the center of the picture.
Now that you are beginning to frame your portraits, you
have started to compose your pictures well.
Since the time of Leonardo da Vinci, budding artists
have had the rule of thirds drummed into them at art
school. I personally find rules extremely boring, but I
grudgingly admit that this one is actually very useful to
Look through your viewfinder and mentally divide the
screen into three horizontal and three vertical sections, like
a tic-tac-toe grid. The points where the lines intersect are
the places that your eye naturally seeks out when looking
at a photograph. It’s logical, therefore, that you should try
to position your subject near one of these four focal points.
When photographing a landscape, it’s also good compo-
sitional practice to place the horizon or skyline on one of
these imaginary lines. At this point we must also mention
that it’s important to keep your horizon straight. Failing to
do so is the most common mistake when starting out. It’s
a real disappointment to see a photograph in which the
skyline runs downhill.
Changing the angle from which you take a picture can
hugely transform it. For small subjects, such as pets and
babies, try to get down on their level. Lie down and look
up at your one-year-old child’s first steps for a far more
interesting picture. A tight portrait of your bulldog asleep
on the rug is far better photographed if you are lying down
on the same level. Choosing a dynamic viewpoint can help
your photography and accentuate your pictures. Don’t be
afraid to be radical and stand directly above the sleeping
dog. This may or may not give a more interesting view-
point; the point is to keep experimenting and looking to
find the most dynamic picture.
I know I sound like Polly the parrot, but keep review-
ing your images on the LCD screen on the back of your
digital camera. A good tip for cameras with an LCD
screen that can be used as a viewfinder—if it’s the sort
with a hinged, adjustable screen—is to hold the camera
on the floor or above your head to gain a more dramatic
viewpoint and view the image using your LCD to control
your composition. This way you can sometimes achieve
a viewpoint that wouldn’t be possible if you had to com-
pose a picture through your normal viewfinder. The less
agile you are, the more useful this can be.
If your frame contains visible or long, continuous
lines, such as roads, rivers, fences, buildings, etc., take
advantage of these lines when composing your image
to lead your eye into the main subject of the picture.
This works particularly well when the lines originate
from the bottom corners of your photographs. A wind-
ing road, for example, leads to the old church you are
photographing, or the Great Wall of China starts in the
bottom corner of your frame and then leads the eye into
the center of the picture.
One last word on color in your composition. It’s point-
less to try to apply any rules to this; it’s up to you as the
photographer to see and appreciate color and the aesthet-
ics of different combinations. Colors can give a warm or
cold feeling to a picture, reflecting our preconceived views
on color. A winter scene can be enhanced by the use of
blue in the picture to give that chilly feeling, for example,
or a red beach umbrella on golden sand can evoke the feel-
ing of warmth. Although it’s not usually possible to add
colors to your photographs, be aware of color as you’re
looking to make that award-winning picture.
On most digital cameras today, photographers tend to
use the auto white balance (AWB) setting. For most sub-
jects, this is fine. In some cases, however, it’s better to use
some of the preset WB settings, such as sunlight, shady,
fluorescent, or tungsten lighting, and match them to the
existing lighting. With advanced digital cameras, you also
have the facility to set a manual white balance. This is
achieved by photographing a neutral gray card, using one
of the options of the camera. The camera then makes an
adjustment to give very accurate color. Where the light is
constant, this is the best way to achieve perfect color bal-
ance with mixed or difficult lighting.
A good trick I use frequently is to set the degrees Kelvin
(a measurement of color) in the camera slightly warmer
than the light at the time. For instance, on a normal
sunny afternoon, the correct color temperature would
be 5,500 degrees Kelvin. I set my camera at 6,000 degrees
Kelvin, which makes the camera think the light is cooler
than it really is. This gives me a pleasing, slightly warmer
effect similar to shooting Fuji Velvia film.
Many of today’s cameras measure the color balance
through the lens. As with through-the-lens automatic
exposure metering, if the subject is a predominant color or
density, the camera’s automatic exposure or color balance
tries to achieve a neutral effect and can be fooled. So if you
were photographing a red Ferrari against a red wall when
shooting on auto white balance, the camera would try to
make your picture less red. Obviously, this isn’t good. In
the same way, if you shot a snowman in the snow on auto-
matic exposure, the camera would underexpose the subject.
You can preset your color balance to get a more desirable
picture. You can do this by:
• Making a manual color balance reading with the camera
• Using a color temperature meter and then entering the
• Using your experience and entering the color balance
in degrees Kelvin manually
To sum up color balance:
• In 90 percent of cases, auto white balance, like auto
exposure, produces great results.
Your virtual viewfinder:
A very good way of comprehending composition is to form
a rectangular frame (your very own virtual viewfinder) with your
hands by linking your index fingers to your thumbs. Hold your
frame at arm’s length for that telephoto look, or close to your
face for the wide-angle effect. You will find that by eliminating the
superfluous information from your view, you will see it more the
way your camera will photograph it. This may sound absurd—after
all, you can always look through your viewfinder—but just try it.
• In unusual or mixed lighting conditions, or with sub-
jects of one predominant color, try to manually set your
• Don’t be afraid to warm your pictures up slightly by
manually setting a cooler color balance than called for
by the light.
• If you are using an advanced camera and shooting in
RAW, many of the color balance adjustments can be
made on the computer after you’ve taken the picture.
However, don’t be lazy and rely on this to avoid making
the correct settings. The more accurately you adjust your
camera settings, the better the final result.
The Importance of Background
One of the most common mistakes made by amateur pho-
tographers is not thinking enough about the background.
When I’m taking pictures, one of the most important ele-
ments I consider is what the background of my picture is
going to be. After all, no picture can be a “great” picture
without a complementary background. This does not
mean always getting a neutral background, although that
can be a good start. The background should not distract
from the main subject of the picture, be it an action pic-
ture, portrait, or even a landscape. In many cases, it can be
used to complement or add to the picture content.
Just changing the angle of the picture slightly can help a
lot. For instance, if you are photographing someone outside
on a sunny day and the background choices are dreadful,
duck down low and photograph against the best—and my
favorite—background in the world: the blue sky. Equally, if
the weather is bad, many great portraits have been photo-
graphed against a cloudy, dark, moody sky.
Sometimes, when the background isn’t great, a good
trick is to use a telephoto lens and shoot at the widest aper-
ture. This puts your background extremely out of focus
and helps your subject stand out. Also, since a telephoto
lens has a smaller angle of acceptance, this allows you to
be more selective with your background.
Let’s consider a familiar scenario to illustrate the impor-
tance of the background. You are taking a photograph of
the bride at her wedding. By framing the church in the
background, you can turn a straight, boring portrait into
a much better photograph. In this case, the background is
complementing the picture, not distracting or overpower-
ing it. You must be careful not to let the background take
over the picture. Remember what you’re setting out to
photograph and use what’s around the subject to help with
your composition and framing.
It almost goes without saying that background aware-
ness is one of the essential elements of well-composed
photography. Some really good portraits are helped by
the pitch-black background on which they are photo-
graphed. Some fantastic still life pictures are enhanced
by the completely clear, white background on which the
subject has been placed.
Finally, here are a few points to bear in mind when you
photograph your next family outing:
• Always, always, always think about what’s in the back-
• When taking a photograph of your sister in New York,
don’t have a skyscraper growing out of her head.
• Don’t photograph your brother at the Grand Canyon
with the horizon coming out of his ears.
• When photographing your father fishing, frame the pic-
ture with the lake in the background—not the car parked
next to the lake.
• When photographing your aunt at her birthday party,
make sure that the illuminated exit sign in the restaurant
is not distracting your eye from the cake.
• When photographing your son’s first football match,
choose a position with the green woodland, not the ugly
sports hall, behind the action picture you intend to take.
• When sneaking a picture of your friend sunbathing on
the beach, wait until the man walking his dog behind
her has gone.
At this point I should be completely honest with you:
I usually don’t like flash photography. I like to use any
natural light that’s available and manipulate the subject
to achieve the affect I’m after. There are occasions where
using flash is a useful technique, and there are a few
things we need to know about the best ways to use flash.
Flash on Camera
We’ve all seen plenty of examples of how not to use
flash—pictures in which the subject is lined up against a
wall and the flash casts a huge ugly shadow that over-
powers the shot. If the flash is built into the camera,
it’s often hard to avoid this situation, but there are a few
simple tricks that may help.
Move the subject away from the background; the
farther away from a surface on which a shadow can be
seen, the better the result will be. The distance between
the subject and the shadow will determine not only the
size of the shadow but also the hardness of the edges, so
the greater the distance, the softer and less obvious the
shadow will be.
On some occasions where it’s not possible to achieve
this separation of subject and background, a shadow
behind your subject is unavoidable, and the best you can
do at these times is to make the shadow as unobtrusive
as possible. Take the picture from an angle that will
project the shadow behind the subject’s head rather than
behind the face, or use Bounce Flash.
Bouncing the Flash
By redirecting the light from your flash you can reflect it, or
bounce it, off another surface to change the angle and qual-
ity of the light reaching your subject. The effect of bounc-
ing the light produces a less directional, less harsh light that
will result in a much softer effect with fewer shadows.
A simple piece of white card can be used to change
the angle of the light from your flash by placing it on
the back of the flash unit and extending it past the face
of the flash. Adjust the angle of the flash unit to direct
the light in the required direction—usually off a neutral
wall or ceiling—and then onto the subject.
Diffusing the Flash
One of the biggest problems with on-camera flash is the
hard light that is produced; hard light, as we have previ-
ously discussed, creates hard shadows that produce unat-
We can combat this problem by diffusing or softening
the light produced by the flash with a proprietary flash
diffuser, or we can make our own. This is as simple as
placing a white handkerchief or some tissue paper in
front of the flash. The light passing through the handker-
chief or tissues will be spread out, or diffused, producing
fewer shadows and a softer look, making even your great-
aunt’s wrinkles look less noticeable.
Correctly exposed foreground,
Another bad flash scenario we’ve all experienced is the
“bright foreground, black background,” where the subject
is correctly exposed but the background is completely
underexposed and pitch black. A friend of mine has a
complete album of pictures like this. “This is Margaret in
Paris,” and “This is Margaret in Rome,” etc. All the pictures
look the same—shots of Margaret with black backgrounds.
The cause is simple: the shutter speed is too fast. The flash
will produce enough light to expose the subject correctly,
but the shutter is opening and closing too quickly to allow
any of the ambient light of the background to be captured.
Setting the shutter to a much lower setting will help
alleviate the problem. The flash will “freeze” the subject
while the longer duration of the shutter will allow more
of the ambient light to pass through the lens. Capturing
ambient light allows more of the background to be seen
in the photograph.
Shutter speeds as slow as 1/8 of a second or even slower
can be used, though if you don’t want to risk blurring of the
ambient-lit portions of the scene, you should brace the cam-
era (e.g. with a tripod). Experiment, and see what results you
can produce. If it doesn’t work the first time, delete the image
and try again using a different shutter speed.
Even if your new digital camera has a built-in flash it’s worth
considering buying an extra flash. This will give you much
more flexibility when it comes to flash photography. There
are too many of these units on the market to mention them
all here, but a good quality flash unit is worth the money
Many of the larger camera manufacturers produce
their own flash units, and if you buy one that is the same
brand as your camera you won’t go too far wrong. A flash
unit that is dedicated to a particular camera offers the full
range of through-the-lens functions and wireless/multi-
flash capabilities. Having an extra flash unit gives you
many more options when it comes to creating different
Few D-SLR cameras have a flash sync plug, relying instead
on an attachment, or “hot shoe,” on top of the camera to con-
nect the flash to the camera. This is a convenient way of con-
necting your portable flash to the camera, but it also limits
what you can do with the flash.
I like a flash that can be removed from the camera and
placed to the side of the subject to produce a highlight, or
placed in other positions to create different lighting effects.
If your camera does not have a sync plug—the plug that
connects the flash to the camera via a cable—there are other
ways that the flash can be operated away from the camera.
There are devices that fit onto the hot shoe of the camera
and can then be connected via a cable or sync lead to an
There is also a small inexpensive device called a slave
unit. This electronic device is activated by the firing of a
flash. Connected to the external flash unit, it fires that
flash when triggered by the flash from another unit.
If your camera is one with a built-in flash, then this
flash can be used to trigger another one equipped with
a slave unit. This allows the use of a second source of
lighting placed almost anywhere you want it. Most brand-
name manufacturers now build this wireless capability
into their flash systems, providing full automation without
the need for cables.
Used in this manner the off-camera flash can provide a
highlight, or key lighting, that adds an extra depth to your
picture. Placed behind the subject, it will highlight the sub-
ject’s hair beautifully.
Although I live in England, there are still times when
the sun can cause problems when I’m taking portraits
On the rare occasions when the sun shines, the bright-
ness can cause pictures to have too large a variation
between highlights and shadows. The pictures can have
uneven lighting. If we expose for the highlights, the shad-
ows will be black and contain no detail. This is when we
need to use fill flash.
Fill flash is simply using a flash to provide more light in
the shadows. This technique produces an evenly lit image
where the highlights are more balanced with the shadows.
To use fill flash, we must first know at what speed our
D-SLR camera synchronizes with the flash. If the flash is
not synchronized, it will have little effect.
Most D-SLR cameras have a sync speed of 1/60 second,
although some more expensive cameras have a sync speed
of 1/250 second. The relatively slow speeds used by most
cameras to synchronize with the flash mean that to achieve
a correct exposure we need to set CCD sensitivity to a much
lower ISO rating or the entire image will be overexposed.
Once the shutter speed has been set at the correct sync
speed, the next step is to take an overall exposure reading.
Let’s say we get a reading of 1/60 second at f/11 at 100
ISO; all we need to do now is set the flash to the appro-
priate distance setting and the power to f/8 (one stop less
than overall exposure reading). This will produce enough
power to “fill” the shadows, but will not completely
Black and White
Most digital cameras have the functionality to allow you
to shoot your pictures in black and white. While this is an
option, I would suggest that you capture your images in
color and convert them to black and white later in your
computer using a proprietary imaging software. This not
only gives you the option of reproducing your images
in either color or black and white, but I have found that
capturing the image in color and converting it later pro-
duces better detail in the shadows than it would in an
image captured initially in black and white. Please refer
to Chapter Five where we will go into the reasons why
and how to manage it.
Quality of light
People often ask me, “What is the best time to take photos?”
This is a question that doesn’t really have one answer;
there are many opinions. However, I do believe that
being able to identify what lighting conditions will
prevail at different times of day—and how to use these
different lighting conditions—is one of the great skills in
The optimal times for photography are usually late in
the afternoon or early in the morning. Even though the
position of the sun is low in the sky during both times of
day, the process of photosynthesis creates a very differ-
ent color palette in each. Photosynthesis is the chemical
process that keeps leaves and grass green in reaction to
the sun. But particles of dust in the air also react to the
sunlight, becoming a darker color rather than invisible,
as they are in the morning.
Early morning light is a very clean, white light that
provides crisp vibrant colors. Late afternoon or early
evening brings a warmer, softer light. And the low angle
of the sun in both situations casts long, strong shadows.
The nature of the late afternoon light—a warm soft
light, diffused and softened—makes it an ideal time
to shoot against the light. Placing the sun behind your
subject and using a reflector or a little fill flash, you can
produce portraits with a surrounding golden glow that
gives an almost ethereal effect.
A good way to discover for yourself the effect of light at
different times of day is to go to a local scenic spot in the
early morning and shoot some pictures. Take the exact
same picture at midday, and then again in the evening.
Compare the pictures and you will see for yourself how
the light changes at different times of day.
My least favorite time of the day for shooting is mid-
day. The sun is at its highest so it creates deep, sharp
shadows that you need to control. Again, fill flash or a
couple of reflectors can help manage the shadows created
by high, harsh light.
Wet and overcast days can also make for visually arrest-
ing images if used well. A rocky coastline with crashing
waves can be spectacular with menacing, cloudy, gray skies
as a backdrop. A person looking through a rain-streaked
window can evoke many different feelings. Immediately
after a thunderstorm, I love the light that streaks through
the blackened clouds as they move away. Those streaks
of light can illuminate the landscape like large spotlights.
Light is essential for photography, and learning how
light behaves at different times of day, and indeed, at
different times of the year, is a skill that one must master
to be a successful photographer.
Here are some basic tips, in summary:
• In the early morning, when the sun is still low in the
sky, the light is clean and white. This is a good time
for landscape photography because the extra length
of the shadows adds a three-dimensional effect to
• At high noon, when the sun is directly above, the
shadows are short and deep and the light can be very
contrasty. Portrait photography is especially difficult
because you must employ a fill flash or reflectors to
soften the effect of the shadows.
• Late afternoon brings a warm diffused light with long
soft shadows. It is an ideal time of day for most kinds
• Light is dynamic. Plan your photography around the
light if possible. If you see a picture but the light is too
harsh, wait an hour to see if conditions improve. They
probably will, and so will your picture.
• “Good” weather doesn’t necessarily equate to good
light. Overcast days soften light nicely and reduce its
contrast while storms can create rare, surreal effects
that can transform an otherwise normal scene.
is story begins with a blurb in the Washington
Post about the passage of the Victims of
Trafficking and Violence Protection Act of 2000.
Jodi Cobb read it and wondered if any stories had been
done on the illegal trade of trafficking humans. She
contacted organizations such as The Protection Project
affiliated with Johns Hopkins University. She contacted
people at the State Department. She read reports issued
by committees at the United Nations. She read Kevin
Bales’s book Disposable People: New Slavery in the Global
Economy. In the end, she realized there wasn’t a picture
story that told the entire truth: 27 million people in the
world are slaves.
“I knew it was going to be a very difficult story
because it was invisible,” says Cobb who spent a year
on the project. She started in India and Nepal, where
she felt she could make pictures. There she already
knew of brothels where women worked and places
that employed children. She had located enslaved
families who worked to pay off debts incurred by unfair
From there she traveled to nine
other countries to photograph as
many of the three sides of the nar-
rative as she could: the different
kinds of enslaved workers, the peo-
ple who enslaved them, and the peo-
ple who worked to free the slaves.
In Israel she had only four days to
work. In Bosnia, she ate lunch with
a man known to be very dangerous.
She risked reprisal on the streets of Mumbai for using her
camera outside the brothels. She cried sometimes while
she worked. “I was either in fear or in tears while I was
shooting,” says Cobb.
“It was the worst of human nature—and the best—in
that story,” she continues. “For every evil guy there
was some brave person trying to help.”
It is safe to say that “21st Century Slaves,” the 24-page
story that National Geographic magazine published
in September 2003, is the pinnacle of a career that has
blossomed from her early days as a staff photographer
at the News Journal in Wilmington, Delaware. After a
two-year stint as a freelance photographer, Cobb joined
the staff of National Geographic magazine in 1977. Since
then she has researched and photographed 25 stories,
covering subjects as wide open as “London” or “The
Enigma of Beauty.” But she also specializes in opening
the doors to closed worlds, as she did in her story “The
Women of Saudi Arabia,” or in her highly acclaimed
1995 book, Geisha: The Life, the Voices, the Art.
To learn more, go to www.nationalgeographic.com.
Or take a class with Jodi. She regularly teaches at the
Photography at the Summit workshop in Jackson
A brothel in Tel Aviv,